Extended Storage (More than 30 Days)

Extended Storage (More than 30 Days) - Ops

Outdoor storage of the engine is not recommended. If units must be kept out of doors, follow the preparation and storage instructions already given. Protect units with quality, weather-resistant tarpaulins (or other suitable covers) arranged to provide for air circulation.

Note: Do not use plastic sheeting for outdoor storage. Enough moisture can condense on the inside of the plastic to rust ferrous metal surfaces and pit aluminum surfaces. If a unit is stored outside for any extended period of time, severe corrosion damage can result.
Note: Plastic is fine for indoor storage.

The stored engine should be inspected periodically. If there are any indications of rust or corrosion, corrective steps must be taken to prevent damage to the engine parts. Perform a complete inspection at the end of one year and apply additional treatment as required.

To prepare an engine for extended storage (more than 30 days), follow this procedure:

  1. Drain the cooling system. Cooling System Drain Procedure, and flush with clean, soft water. Refill with clean, soft water and add a rust inhibitor to the cooling system.
  2. Circulate the coolant by operating the engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Cooling System Fill Procedure.
  3. Stop the engine.
  4. With the engine at ambient temperature and cool to the touch, drain the engine crankcase oil into a suitable container. Remove the oil filters. Dispose of the oil and filters in an environmentally friendly manner, according to state and/or federal recommendations. Replace the drain plug and torque to 45-50 N·m (33-77 lb·ft).
  5. Install new lubricating oil filters. Fill the crankcase to the proper level with Tectyl® 930A preservative lubricating oil or an equivalent 30-weight preservative lubricating oil meeting Mil-L-21260C, Grade 2 Specification.
  6. Drain the fuel tank. Refill with enough clean No. 1 diesel fuel to permit the engine to operate for about ten (10) minutes. If draining the fuel tank is not convenient, use a separate, portable supply of recommended fuel.
    Note: If engines are stored where condensation of water in the fuel tank may be a problem, additives containing methyl carbitol or butyl cellusolve may be added to the fuel. Follow manufacturer's instructions for treatment. Where biological contamination of fuel may be a problem, add a biocide such as Biobor® JF (or equivalent) to the fuel. When using a biocide, follow the manufacturer's concentration recommendations and observe all cautions and warnings.
  7. Drain the fuel system and remove the fuel filters. Dispose of used filters in an environmentally responsible manner, according to state and/or federal recommendations. Fill the new filters with No. 1 diesel fuel or pure kerosene and install on the engine.
  8. Operate the engine for five (5) minutes to circulate the clean fuel throughout the engine. Be sure the engine fuel system is full.
  9. Stop the engine and allow to cool. Then disconnect the fuel return line and the inlet line at the primary filter and securely plug both to retain the fuel in the engine.
  10. Transmission: Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for prolonged storage.
  11. Power Take-Off: If equipped, follow manufacturer's recommendations for prolonged storage.
  12. Turbocharger: Since turbocharger bearings are pressure lubricated through the external oil line leading from the oil filter adaptor while the engine is operating, no further attention is required. However, the turbocharger air inlet and turbine exhaust outlet connection should be sealed off with moisture-resistant tape.
    Note: Failure to properly seal off the turbocharger air inlet and exhaust outlet openings before engine storage may permit air drafts to circulate through the turbocharger and rotate the turbine/compressor shaft without an adequate flow of lubricating oil to the center housing bearings resulting in severe bearing damage.
  13. Apply a non-friction rust preventive compound to all exposed engine parts. If convenient, apply the rust preventive compound to the engine flywheel. If not, disengage the clutch mechanism to prevent the clutch disc from sticking to the flywheel.
    Note: Do not apply oil, grease or any wax-base compound to the flywheel. The cast iron will absorb these substances, which can sweat out during operation and cause the clutch to slip.
  14. Drain the engine cooling system. If the engine will be exposed to freezing temperatures, install genuine Detroit Power Cool antifreeze or an equivalent ethylene glycol-base or propylene glycol-base antifreeze solution that provides the required freeze, boil over and inhibitor protection. Coolant Requirements
  15. Drain the preservative oil from the engine crankcase. Reinstall and torque the 3/4" – 14 square, magnetic drain plug to 45-50 N·m (33-77 lb·ft).
  16. Remove and clean the battery and battery cables with a baking soda-water solution and rinse with fresh water. Do not allow the soda solution to enter the battery. Add distilled water to the electrolyte (if necessary) and fully charge the battery. Store the battery in a cool (never below 0° C or 32° F) dry place. Keep the battery fully charged and check the level and specific gravity of the electrolyte regularly.
  17. Insert heavy paper strips between the pulleys and drive belts to prevent sticking.
  18. Seal all engine openings, including the exhaust outlet, with moisture-resistant tape. Use cardboard, plywood or metal covers where practical.
  19. Clean and dry the exterior painted surfaces of the engine and spray with a suitable liquid automobile body wax, a synthetic resin varnish, or a rust preventive compound.
  20. Protect the engine with a good weather-resistant tarpaulin and store it under cover, preferably in a dry building which can be heated during the winter months.
Parent topic: Preparing Engine for Storage