Lubricating and Inspecting the Tie-Rod End
- Wipe the tie-rod end grease fittings clean, then (for Detroit or Meritor axles) pump multipurpose chassis grease (NLGI grade 1 or 2) to the tie-rod ends until all used grease is forced out and new grease appears at the ball stud neck.
- Inspect the tie-rod
ends, as follows.
- Shake the cross-tube. Movement or looseness between the tapered shaft of the ball and the cross-tube socket members means that the tie-rod end assembly must be replaced.
- The threaded portion of the tie-rod end assembly must
be inserted all the way into the cross-tube split, for adequate clamping.
See Fig.. Replace the parts if this
cannot be done. For instructions, see the axle manufacturer's service
manual.
Important: The tie-rod end threads must be visible throughout the entire length of the split.
Note: Pinch bolt not shown to provide clarity.
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Cross-Tube Split
Fig. 1, Tie-Rod End Adjustment
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- Check the tie-rod end nut and clamp nut torques. For Detroit axles, see Table for tie-rod end nut torque specifications and Table for tie-rod end clamp nut torque specifications. For Meritor axles, tighten the tie-rod end nut 100 lbf·ft (136 N·m), and tighten the clamp nut 40 to 55 lbf·ft (54 to 75 N·m).
Important: DOT roadside tie-rod assembly replacement criteria specifies that if tie-rod endplay is 1/8 inch (3 mm) or greater, measured on the road, the vehicle must be taken out of service immediately. If less than 1/8 inch (3 mm), the vehicle does not have to be taken out of service but a major out-of-service inspection and maintenance must be scheduled as soon as possible.
Notice: If a power washer is used to clean the chassis in the area of the tie-rod ends, you must adjust the tie-rod end inspection and lubrication intervals. If the vehicle is power washed often, you must inspect and lubricate the tie-rod ends more frequently.
Note: Inspect the tie-rod end boots for cracks, wear, or damage. If a boot is cracked, worn, or damaged, replace the tie-rod assembly.