Tie Rod Inspection

sd mm 33.02.001

    Important: If the tie rod end boot is torn or missing, replace the entire tie rod end. Do not replace the boot only.

  1. Shut off the engine, apply the brakes, and chock the rear tires.
  2. Check the tie rod boot for cracks, tears, or other damage. If the tie rod boot is damaged, replace the entire tie rod end.
  3. The threaded portion of the tie-rod end assembly must be inserted all the way into the cross-tube split for adequate clamping. See Fig.. Replace the components if this cannot be done. For instructions, refer to  of the 108SD and 114SD Workshop Manual.

    Note: Shown without pinch bolt to provide clarity.

    1. Cross-Tube Split

    Fig. 1, Tie-Rod End Adjustment

  4. Grasp by hand (or use a pipe wrench with jaw protectors to avoid gouging the cross tube) and slightly rotate the cross tube toward the front of the vehicle and then slightly toward the rear. Then center the cross tube between the stop positions. If the cross tube does not rotate in either direction, replace both tie rod ends.
  5. Position yourself directly below the ball stud socket. Using both hands, grab the end as close to the socket as possible, no more than 6 inches (15.2 cm) from the end. Firmly apply about 100 pounds of hand pressure in an up and down motion several times. When moving the assembly, check for any movement at both tie rod ends. See Fig..
    If any movement is detected at one tie rod end, replace both tie rod ends. Always replace tie rod ends in pairs, even if only one tie rod end is damaged.

    Fig. 2, Check Movement of Tie Rod End

    6. Notice: Do not attempt to straighten a bent cross tube. Doing so could result in damage to the axle. Be sure to replace the cross tube with an original equipment cross tube with the same length, diameter, and thread size as the existing cross tube.

  6. Check the cross tube for cracks or other damage. If the cross tube is bent or damaged, replace the cross tube.
  7. Check the clamps for damage. If a clamp is damaged, replace the clamp. Replace the entire cross tube assembly if either clamp is welded to the cross tube.
  8. Check for proper installation of the tie rod end clamp to the cross tube. Make sure that the tie rod ends are threaded in the cross tube past the clamps and the slots at the cross tube ends.
  9. Check the zerk fittings for damage. If a zerk fitting is damaged, replace it.
    Some tie rod ends have no zerk fittings because they are not greaseable. Do not install a zerk fitting on a nongreaseable tie rod end.
  10. Check that the cotter pin is in place. If it is not, tighten the tie rod end nut to one of the following specs depending on the axle manufacturer.

    For Detroit axles, tighten the castle nut to 120 to 170 lbf·ft (163 to 230 N·m). To align the cotter pin hole with the castle nut slot, turn the nut up to 1/6 turn (maximum).

    For Meritor axles, tighten the tie rod end nut per the size of the stud:

    • 7/8–14, 160 to 300 lbf·ft (217 to 406 N·m)

    • 1–14, 250 to 450 lbf·ft (339 to 610 N·m)

    • 1-1/8–12, 350 to 650 lbf·ft (475 to 881 N·m)

    • 1-1/4–12, 500 to 675 lbf·ft (678 to 915 N·m)

  11. Check the steering arm bolts for a minimum torque of 300 lbf·ft (406 N·m). If the steering arm bolt torque has fallen below this specification, remove the bolt, clean all the threads, and apply new Loctite® 680. Tighten the bolt 300 to 450 lbf·ft (406 to 610 N·m).
  12. Remove the chocks from the tires.
Note:
Parent topic: Front Axle
Document Number: 0000120027
Manual Publication Date: 2024-05-23
Topic Publication Date: 2024-10-30