Daily Pretrip Inspection and Maintenance Procedures

s2 dm 15.02.000

Whenever equipment requires adjustment, replacement, and/or repair, see the S2 Chassis Workshop Manual for procedures and specifications. Specific references to the manual will be found where appropriate.

  1. Drain the brake system air reservoirs (reservoirs without automatic drain valves only).
    Water and oil normally enter the air reservoir in the form of vapor because of the heat generated during compression. After the water and oil condense, drain the resulting emulsion as follows:

      Warning: When draining the air reservoir, do not look into the air jets or direct them toward anyone. Dirt or sludge particles may be in the airstream and could cause injury.

    1. Open the wet tank valve. The drain cock or pull chain drain is located on the forward end of the supply air reservoir, which is connected directly to the air compressor. Block the valve open.
    2. Exhaust the remaining air and moisture from the system by opening the drain cocks on the bottoms of the remaining air reservoirs. Block the valves open.
    3. Water and oil emulsion often form pockets that will not drain while compressed air is in the reservoirs. Because of these pockets, leave the valves blocked open during the first part of the pretrip inspection.
    4. If the drained water is cloudy or oily, it may indicate a problem with the compressor. If oil is allowed to contaminate the air dryer, it will not remove the water from the air brake system, which could adversely affect braking.
  2. Check the fluid level in the windshield washer reservoir.
    Add washer fluid as needed. Unscrew the cap to add fluid.

    3. Warning: Washer fluids may be flammable and poisonous. Do not expose washer fluid to an open flame or any burning material, such as a cigarette. Always comply with the washer fluid manufacturer's recommended safety precautions.

  3. Check the coolant level in the surge tank.
    If the coolant is low, add a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze. Refer to the coolant label on the vehicle or the engine manufacturer’s service literature for approved coolants. Coolant used must be compatible with the engine manufacturer’s coolant specifications. For approved coolants, refer to the Cummins Online website, see https://www.cummins.com/support/manuals or scan the QR code. See Fig.. For Detroit engine service literature, refer to the Detroit Diesel link on the DTNA TechLit website, see https://www.dtnatechlit.com/portal-public or scan the QR code. See Fig..

    Fig. 1, Cummins QR Code

    Fig. 2, TechLit QR Code

    Note: Add coolant here (arrow).

    Fig. 3, Coolant Level Checking

    4. Notice: Coolant must be filled to the full line of the surge tank. See Fig.. Low coolant could result in engine overheating, which could cause engine damage.

  4. Inspect the radiator and charge air cooler.
    1. Inspect the radiator and charge air cooler for clogged fins. Use compressed air or water directed from the fan side of the core to backflush any material restricting airflow.
    2. Inspect the radiator and charge air cooler for damage and accumulated debris. Straighten bent or damaged fins to permit airflow across all areas of the cores.

      Note: When traveling through areas of high insect concentration, it may be necessary to clean the exterior of the radiator or the charge air cooler core as often as every 200 miles (320 km).
      1. Also inspect and clean the condenser. If clogged, the condenser can restrict airflow through the radiator.
      2. Check the radiator for leaks. If leaks are found, have the radiator repaired or replaced. See of the S2 Chassis Workshop Manual for instructions, or take the vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer.
    3. Inspect the engine and chassis wiring.
      Check for loose wiring, chafed insulation, and damaged or loose hold-down clamps. Tighten loose wires or hold-down clamps; replace damaged wiring or clamps.
    4. Inspect the air intake system for leaks or damage.

      Notice: Failure to maintain a sealed air intake system could allow entry of dirt and contaminants into the engine. This could adversely affect engine performance and result in engine damage.
        1. Check the intake-air restriction indicator.
        2. Replace the primary filter element in the air cleaner if the yellow signal stays locked at 20 inH2O for Mercedes-Benz engines and 25 inH2O for Cummins ISB engines. See of the S2 Chassis Workshop Manual for filter element replacement instructions, or take the vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer. See Fig..

          1. Primary Filter Element

          2. Secondary or Safety Filter Element

          Fig. 4, Air Cleaner Filter Elements

          Note: After replacing the filter element, reset the restriction indicator by pressing the rubber reset button.
          1. Inspect the secondary or safety filter element in the air cleaner when replacing the primary element, and replace it when clogged or dirty. This element should be replaced with every third primary element replacement.
          2. Check the engine air intake piping from the air cleaner to the engine intake. Inspect the piping for loose connections, cracks, torn or collapsed hoses, punctures, and other damage. Tighten loose connections, and have damaged components replaced. Make sure the piping system is airtight so that all intake air passes through the air cleaner.

          3. Important: On engines that comply with EpA07 or newer regulations, use CJ-4 engine oil with less than 1% sulfated ash. Failure to use CJ-4 oil may void the warranty on emission aftertreatment components.

          Notice: Operating the engine with the oil level below the minimum fill (or "add") mark or above the maximum fill (or "full") mark could result in engine damage.

        3. Check the engine oil level.

          Notice: Operating the engine with the oil level below the minimum fill (or "add") mark or above the maximum fill (or "full") mark could result in engine damage.
            1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Allow several minutes for the oil to drain back into the oil pan to ensure an accurate reading.

              Note: For diesel engines, follow the engine manufacturer's guidelines for engine shutdown time requirements prior to checking the oil level.
              1. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push the dipstick back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the oil level.
              2. If the oil is below the cross-hatched area, or the add mark, at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart (liter) of the recommended oil. See Fig. and Fig. for diesel engines, and Fig. for propane engines.
                For diesel engines that comply with EpA07 or newer regulations, use CJ-4 engine oil with less than 1% sulfated ash.
                For liquid propane gas (LpG) engines, use SAE 5W30 oil that meets GM standard GM6094M and has the American petroleum Institute (ApI) symbol. Do not use SAE 10W40 or 20W50.

                Fig. 5, Oil Dipstick (Cummins engine)

                1. Maximum Fill Level

                2. Minimum Fill Level

                Fig. 6, Oil Dipstick (Mercedes-Benz engine)

                Note: Oil should be within the cross-hatched area of the dipstick.

                Fig. 7, Oil Dipstick (LpG engine)

              2. Notice: Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine or aftertreatment component damage and will void the warranty.

            2. Inspect the fuel tanks, fuel lines, and connections for leaks.
              1. Check that the fuel tanks are secured to their mounting brackets and that the mounting brackets are secured to the frame.
              2. Replace leaking fuel tanks.
              3. If lines or connections are leaking, have them repaired or replaced.
                For repair and/or replacement procedures, see of the S2 Chassis Workshop Manual, or take the vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer.
              4. If equipped with fuel tank shutoff valves, be sure the valves are fully open.

              3. Warning: Never operate the engine with the fuel tank shutoff valves partly closed. This could damage the fuel pump, causing sudden loss of engine power, possibly resulting in serious personal injury due to reduced vehicle control.

            3. Check the fuel level in the fuel tank(s).
              To keep condensation to a minimum, fuel tanks should be filled at the end of each day. Federal regulations prohibit filling a fuel tank to more than 95 percent of its liquid capacity. Select the proper grade of fuel as specified by the engine manufacturer.

              Warning: Do not mix gasoline or alcohol with diesel fuel. This mixture could cause an explosion, possibly resulting in serious personal injury or death. Do not fill the fuel tanks in the presence of sparks, open flames, or intense heat. These could ignite the fuel, possibly causing severe burns.
               

                Important: Use ultralow-sulfur diesel (ULSD) fuel with 15 ppm sulfur content or less, based on ASTM D2622 test procedure. Failure to use ultralow-sulfur diesel fuels may void the warranty on emission components.
                  1. Fuel should always be strained or filtered before being put into the tanks. This will lengthen the life of the engine fuel filter and reduce the chances of dirt getting into the engine.
                  2. Before installing the fuel cap, clean the area with a rag, or if necessary, clean the cap with solvent.
                  3. If needed, prime the fuel system. For priming procedures, see the applicable engine manufacturer's manual.
                1. If equipped with a fuel/water separator, check for water.
                  Drain any water found. Check the fuel/water separator for leaks and contaminants.
                  For an Alliance Model, see Fig.. place a suitable container under the fuel/water separator. Check the water level in the sight bowl, if so equipped. To drain the water, loosen the valve at the bottom and allow the water to run out. Close and tighten the valve finger-tight.

                  Fig. 8, Alliance Fuel/Water Separator

                  2. Important: When draining fluid from a fuel/water separator, drain the fluid into an appropriate container and dispose of it properly. Many states now issue fines for draining fuel/water separators onto the ground. On all types of separators, stop draining fluid when you see fuel come out of the separator drain valve.

                2. Inspect the front and rear suspension components, including springs, spring hangers, shocks, and suspension brackets.
                  1. Check for broken spring leaves, loose U-bolts, cracks in the suspension brackets, and loose fasteners in the spring hangers and shackles.
                  2. Inspect the shock absorbers for loose fasteners and leaks.
                  3. Tighten all loose fasteners and have any components replaced that are worn, cracked, or otherwise damaged.
                  4. On vehicles with air suspensions, check for leaks. Check air suspension components for cuts and bulges.
                3. Clean the headlights, mirrors, windshield, side, and rear windows with a long-handled or telescoping window cleaning device and standard cleaning solutions. Stand only on the ground, on a stepladder, or an elevated walkway. The vehicle entry/exit steps and handholds are not designed for this purpose. The tires, fenders, engine, and other under-hood components do not have adequate gripping surfaces and handholds.
                  Check the condition of the windshield wiper arms and blades.
                  Be sure the windshield wiper blades are tensioned against the windshield.
                  Inspect the wiper blades for damage and deteriorated rubber.
                  Replace the wiper arms if the wiper blades are not tensioned against the windshield.
                  Replace damaged or deteriorated wiper blades.

                  4. Warning: When cleaning windshields and windows, always stand on the ground or on a secure ladder or platform. Use a long-handled window cleaner. Do not use the cab steps, tires, fenders, fuel tanks, engine, or under-hood components to access the windshield or windows. Doing so could cause a fall and result in an injury.

                  Replace wiper arms and blades when necessary to maintain good visibility. poor visibility could interfere with the driver's ability to control the vehicle, possibly resulting in serious personal injury or death.

                4. Check the oil- and air-pressure warning systems.
                  When the engine is started, oil- and air-pressure warnings will come on until the oil and air pressure rise above a preset minimum. After starting the engine, make sure the oil- and air-pressure warning systems are operating and that the buzzer stops sounding when the preset minimum is reached.
                  1. If the warning systems do not come on when the ignition is turned on, have the systems repaired.
                  2. If the air pressure in both systems is above the preset minimum when the engine is started, test the low air pressure warning system by lowering the pressure to below this range, or until the warning system comes on.

                  5. Note: The air pressure in both the primary and secondary air reservoir systems must be above 65 psi (448 kpa) on most vehicles. For vehicles with an optional Bendix dryer reservoir module (DRM), the cut-out pressure is 130 psi (896 kpa).

                5. Check the instrumentation control unit (ICU) for fault codes.
                  During the ignition sequence, if an active fault is detected in any device that is connected to the datalink, the message display screen will show the active fault codes, one after the other, until the parking brake is released or the ignition switch is turned off. See General Description for detailed operating instructions for the ICU.
                6. Make sure that the horn, windshield wipers, and windshield washers are operating properly. These devices must be in good working order for safe vehicle operation.
                  1. Make sure that the horn works. If a horn is not working, have it repaired before trip departure.
                  2. Check the wiper and washer control on the multifunction turn signal switch. If the wipers and/or washers are not working, have them repaired before trip departure.
                7. During cold weather, make sure the heater, defroster, and optional mirror heat controls are operating properly. If so equipped, turn on the mirror heat switch and make sure the system is working.
                8. Check the operation of all the panel lights and interior lights.
                  Turn on the headlights, dash lights, and four-way flashers and leave them on. If any of the gauge bulbs, the dome light bulbs, or the right- and left-turn indicator bulbs are not working, replace them. See Chapter 19 of this manual for replacement bulb identification.
                9. Make sure all the exterior lights are working properly.
                  Check that all the lights and reflectors are clean. See Fig..

                  1. Headlight High Beam

                  2. Headlight Low Beam

                  3. Side-View Mirror

                  4. Marker Light

                  Fig. 9, Exterior Lights

                  1. Check that the brake lights, taillights, headlights, parking lights, turn signals, road lights (if so equipped), and front clearance lights are working properly and are clean.
                  2. Test the high and low beams of the headlights.
                  3. Replace light bulbs or sealed beam units that are not working.
                  4. Be sure all reflectors and lenses are in good condition and are clean. Replace any broken reflectors or lenses.
                10. Check tire inflation pressures using an accurate tire pressure gauge.
                  Tires should be checked when cool. For inflation pressures and maximum loads (per tire) see the tire manufacturer's guidelines.
                  1. Be sure valve stem caps are on every tire and that they are screwed on finger-tight.
                  2. Inflate the tires to the applicable pressures if needed.
                  3. If a tire has been run flat or underinflated, check for possible wheel or tire damage before adding air.
                    Moisture inside a tire can result in body ply separation or a sidewall rupture. During tire inflation, compressed air reservoirs and lines must be kept dry. Use well-maintained inline moisture traps and service them regularly.

                  11. Warning: Do not operate the vehicle with underinflated or overinflated tires. Incorrect inflation can stress the tires and make the tires and wheels susceptible to damage, possibly leading to wheel or tire failure and loss of vehicle control, resulting in serious personal injury or death.

                  Important: The load and cold inflation pressure must not exceed the wheel manufacturer's recommendations, even though the tire may be approved for a higher load inflation. Some wheels are stamped with a maximum load and maximum cold inflation rating. If they are not stamped, consult the wheel manufacturer for the correct tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load. If the load exceeds the maximum wheel capacity, the load must be adjusted or reduced.

                  Important: Low-rolling resistance (LRR) tires minimize wasted energy as a tire rolls, thereby decreasing rolling effort and improving fuel efficiency. If tire replacement is necessary, replacement tires must meet or exceed the rolling resistance of the originally installed tires in order to maintain compliance with greenhouse gas and fuel efficiency regulations.

                  Contact your tire manufacturer/supplier to determine the rolling resistance of the originally installed tires. Visit www.epa.gov/smartway for additional information and resources.

                11. Inspect each tire for wear, bulges, cracks, cuts, penetrations, and oil contamination. A weekly pressure loss of 4 psi (28 kpa) or more in a tire may indicate damage. The tire should be inspected and if necessary, repaired or replaced.
                  1. Check the tire tread depth. If tread is less than 4/32 inch (3 mm) on any front tire, or less than 2/32 inch (1.5 mm) on any rear tire, replace the tire.
                  2. Inspect each tire for bulges, cracks, cuts, and penetrations.
                  3. Inspect each tire for oil contamination. Fuel oil, gasoline, and other petroleum derivatives, if allowed to contact the tires, will soften the rubber and destroy the tire.
                12. Check the wheel nuts for indications of looseness. Examine each wheel component.
                  1. Remove all dirt and foreign material from the assembly. Dirt or rust streaks from the stud holes, metal buildup around stud holes, or out-of-round or worn stud holes may be caused by loose wheel nuts. See Fig. and Fig..

                    Fig. 10, Dirt and Rust Streaks from the Stud Holes

                    Fig. 11, Worn Stud Holes

                  2. Examine the wheel components (including studs, and nuts) for cracks, or other damage.
                    See or of the S2 Chassis Workshop Manual for service procedures on the studs and hubs, and see in the same manual for wheel and tire servicing, or take the vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer.

                    Warning: Have any worn or damaged wheel components replaced by a qualified person using the wheel manufacturer's instructions and the wheel industry's standard safety precautions and equipment. Otherwise a vehicle or workshop accident could occur, possibly resulting in serious personal injury or death.
                    1. Make sure all wheel nuts are tightened 450 to 500 lbf·ft (610 to 678 N·m) for Accuride wheels with unlubricated threads. Use the tightening pattern in Fig. for 10-hole wheels and the tightening pattern in Fig. for 8-hole wheels. See of the S2 Chassis Workshop Manual for more information.

                      Fig. 12, Tightening pattern, 10-Hole Wheels

                      Fig. 13, Tightening pattern, 8-Hole Wheels

                    3. Notice: Insufficient wheel nut torque can cause wheel shimmy, resulting in wheel damage, stud breakage, and extreme tire tread wear. Excessive wheel nut torque can break studs, damage threads, and crack discs in the stud hole area. Use the recommended torque values and follow the proper tightening sequence.

                    Note: Vehicles operating under severe or adverse conditions should be checked more frequently.

                  3. Inspect the air brake chamber and the air brake chamber pushrods. See Fig..

                    • Do not remove this clamp ring.

                    1. MGM TRT (TR Series) Brake Chamber Shown

                    Fig. 14, Parking Brake Chamber Clamp

                    Danger: Do not loosen or remove the parking brake clamp ring for any purpose. See Fig.. The parking/emergency brake section of the brake chamber is not intended to be serviced. Serious injury or death may result from sudden release of the power spring.

                    Before doing any repairs or adjustments on a service/parking brake chamber, read the applicable warnings and instructions in of the S2 plus Chassis Workshop Manual.

                      Warning: Do not operate the vehicle with the front brakes backed off or disconnected. Backing off or disconnecting the front brakes will not improve vehicle handling and may lead to loss of vehicle control resulting in property damage or personal injury.

                        Notice: If the external breather tube or breather cap is missing or incorrectly installed, road dirt and debris can adversely affect the operation of the brake chamber. Once inside of the chamber, dirt and debris can cause the internal parts of the chamber to deteriorate faster.
                          1. Check that the air brake chamber is mounted securely on its mounting bracket, and that there are no loose or missing bolts.
                          2. Look for worn clevis pins on brake chamber pushrods, and missing or damaged cotter pins on brake chamber pushrod clevis pins. Replace worn clevis pins and install new cotter pins if necessary.
                          3. See if the chamber piston rod is in line with the slack adjuster. Misalignment can cause the piston rod to rub on the non-pressure chamber and cause a dragging brake. See of the S2 Chassis Workshop Manual.
                          4. Inspect the exterior surfaces of the chamber for damage. Make sure that breather holes in the non-pressure section(s) are open and free of debris. See of the S2 Chassis Workshop Manual to replace any damaged parts.
                          5. On all parking brake installations, make sure the end cover cap or dust plug is securely snapped into place.

                            Note: On most MGM parking brake chambers equipped with an integral release bolt, an end cover cap is installed over the release bolt.
                            1. Check for rusted connections, missing snap rings, and damaged camshaft grease seals. Have damaged or missing parts repaired or replaced.
                          6. Inspect the air brake lines.
                            1. Check the clearance between the hoses and the exhaust manifold or other hot spots. Excessive heat will cause material in the hoses to deteriorate rapidly or become brittle. provide at least 6 inches (150 mm) of clearance. More clearance is recommended if the hose is located above the heat source.
                            2. Check for kinks, dents, or swelling of the hoses. If damaged, have the hose replaced with the same size and type.

                              Note: Do not route the hose on top of anything likely to be stepped on.
                              1. Check for damage to hoses located near moving parts, such as drivelines, kingpins, suspensions, and axles. If moving parts are catching or pinching the lines, correct as needed.
                              2. Check for hose damage caused by abrasion. If abraded, have the hose replaced. Check for the cause of abrasion, such as loose or damaged hose clamps. Have the clamps repaired or replaced as needed.
                              3. Observe the hose cover condition, especially hoses exposed to water splash and ice. If dried out or ragged (the wire or liner is showing through the cover), have the hose(s) replaced.
                              4. Inspect the air tubing, especially tubing made of nylon. In cold weather, nylon tubing is sensitive to damage, such as nicks or cuts. Have nicked or cut tubing replaced, even if it is not leaking.

                                Note: The front brake lines flex continuously in vehicle operation, so they require special examination. Give particular attention to the areas near where they connect to the front air brake chambers.
                                1. This inspection requires two people, one in the driver seat, and another to inspect the brake line connections at the wheels.
                                  Both wheel air lines must be inspected with the emergency brake set, engine idling, air pressure at 80 to 90 psi (550 to 620 kpa), and the brake pedal held down.
                                2. Turn the wheels to full lock in one direction and inspect both air lines where they connect to the air chambers, then turn the wheels to full lock in the other direction and inspect both lines. If a hose is leaking, have it replaced.

                                5. Important: ABS-equipped vehicles operating in regions where especially corrosive ice removal chemicals are used may experience higher than normal rotor corrosion. Tone rings should be routinely inspected for corrosion. Severe corrosion of the integral ABS tone ring may cause the ABS warning lamp in the dash to illuminate due to false wheel speed readings. If the ABS warning lamp illuminates at any time other than at vehicle start-up, have the problem repaired immediately.

                              5. Inspect the slack adjusters.
                                1. Meritor Slack Adjusters: Check the boot for cuts, tears, or other damage. Have it replaced if necessary.
                                2. Gunite Slack Adjusters: Inspect the slack adjuster for any signs of damage. If damaged, have the slack adjuster replaced.
                                  Inspect the slack adjuster boot for cuts or tears. If the boot is damaged, have it replaced. See Fig..

                                  1. 7/16-inch Adjusting Nut

                                  2. Grease Fitting

                                  3. Boot

                                  4. Link

                                  5. Brake Chamber piston Rod

                                  6. Clevis

                                  7. ½-inch Clevis pin

                                  8. 1/4-inch Clevis pin

                                  9. Grease Relief Opening

                                  10. Slack Adjuster Spline

                                  Fig. 15, Gunite Automatic Slack Adjuster

                                3. Haldex Slack Adjusters: Inspect each slack adjuster and anchor strap for damage. Have any damaged components replaced.
                              6. Check the air brake system for proper operation.
                                1. Check the air governor cut-in and cut-out pressures as follows:
                                  Run the engine at fast idle. The air governor should cut out the air compressor at approximately 120 psi (827 kpa). With the engine idling, apply the brake pedal several times. The air governor should cut in the air compressor at approximately 100 psi (689 kpa). If the air governor does not cut in and out as described above, it must be adjusted to these specifications. If the air governor cannot be adjusted or repaired, replace it before operating the vehicle.
                                2. Check the air pressure buildup time as follows:
                                  With the air system fully charged to 120 psi (827 kpa), make one full brake application and note the air pressure reading on the gauge. Continue to reduce the air pressure by moderate brake applications to a maximum of 90 psi (620 kpa), then run the engine at governed rpm. If the time required to raise the air pressure to 120 psi (827 kpa) (from the pressure noted after one brake application) is more than 30 seconds, eliminate any leaks or replace the air compressor before operating the vehicle.
                                3. Check the air pressure reserve as follows:
                                  With the air system fully charged to 120 psi (827 kpa), stop the engine and note the air pressure. Then make one full brake application and observe the pressure drop. If it drops more than 25 psi (172 kpa), all areas of leakage must be eliminated before operating the vehicle.
                                4. Check the air leakage in the system as follows:
                                  With the parking brake (spring brake) applied, the transmission out of gear, and the tires chocked, charge the air system until cut-out pressure of 120 psi (827 kpa) is reached.
                                  With the service brakes released, shut down the engine, wait 1 minute and note the air pressure gauge reading. Observe the air pressure drop in psi (kpa) per minute.
                                  Charge the air system until cut-out pressure of 120 psi (827 kpa) is reached. With the parking brakes released and the service brake applied, shut down the engine, wait 1 minute and note the air pressure gauge reading. Observe the air pressure drop in psi (kpa) per minute.
                                  If leakage exceeds the limits shown in Table., repair all areas of leakage before driving the vehicle.

                                  Table 15, Maximum Allowable Service Brake Leakage

                                  Maximum Allowable Service Brake Leakage

                                  Maximum Air Leakage per Minute

                                  Brakes Released

                                  Brakes Applied

                                  2 psi (14 kpa)

                                  3 psi (21 kpa)

                                    Table 15, Maximum Allowable Service Brake Leakage

                                5. Check the operation of the Bendix® Hydro-Max brake booster, as follows.
                                  1. With the ignition off, depress the brake pedal and listen for the back-up motor to engage. The operator should also feel the pedal force relieve and the pedal should depress easily.
                                  2. With the engine running, and the parking brake released, ensure that the BRAKE warning indicator light is not on. This is a dual indicator, and indicates that the parking brake is set, and warns if there is a Hydro-Max failure condition other than loss of back-up motor power.
                                6. Test the service brakes.
                                  When starting to move the vehicle and before picking up speed, test the brakes with the foot pedal and parking brake control valve (yellow knob) to be sure they will bring the vehicle to a safe stop.
                                Note:
                                Parent topic: Pre- and Post-Trip Inspections and Maintenance
                                Document Number: 0000119456
                                Manual Publication Date: 2024-05-17
                                Topic Publication Date: 2024-05-13