Tie Rod End Inspecting
Important: If the tie rod end boot is torn or missing, replace the entire tie rod assembly or the tie rod end. Do not replace the boot only.
- Shut down the engine, apply the parking brake, and chock the rear tires.
- Check the tie rod boot for cracks, tears, or other damage. If the tie rod boot is damaged, replace the entire tie rod end.
- Grasp by hand (or use a pipe wrench with jaw protectors to avoid gouging the cross tube) and slightly rotate the cross tube toward the front of the vehicle and then slightly toward the rear. Then center the cross tube between the stop positions. If the cross tube does not rotate in either direction, replace both tie rod ends.
- Position yourself directly below the ball stud socket.
Using both hands, grab the end as close to the socket as possible,
no more than 6 inches (15.2 cm) from the end. Firmly apply about 100
pounds of hand pressure in an up and down motion several times. When
moving the assembly, check for any movement at both tie rod ends.
See Fig..If any movement is detected at one tie rod end, replace both tie rod ends. Always replace tie rod ends in pairs, even if only one tie rod end is damaged.
Fig. 1, Checking Tie Rod End Movement
- Check the cross tube for cracks or other damage. If the cross tube is bent or damaged, replace the cross tube.
- Check the clamps for damage. If a clamp is damaged, replace the clamp. Replace the entire cross tube assembly if either clamp is welded to the cross tube.
- Check for proper installation of the tie rod end clamp to the cross tube. Make sure that the tie rod ends are threaded in the cross tube past the clamps and the slots at the cross tube ends.
- Check the grease fittings for damage. If a grease fitting
is damaged, replace it.Some tie rod ends have no grease fittings because they are not greaseable. Do not install a grease fitting on a nongreaseable tie rod end.
- Check that the cotter pin is in place. If it is not, tighten
the tie rod end nut to the applicable value depending on the size
of the stud.
-
7/8–14, 160 to 300 lbf·ft (217 to 406 N·m)
-
1–14, 250 to 450 lbf·ft (339 to 610 N·m)
-
1-1/8–12, 350 to 650 lbf·ft (475 to 881 N·m)
-
1-1/4–12, 500 to 675 lbf·ft (678 to 915 N·m)
-
- Check the steering arm bolts for a minimum torque of 300 lbf·ft (406 N·m). If the steering arm bolt torque has fallen below this specification, remove the bolt, clean all the threads, and apply new Loctite® 680. Tighten the bolt 300 to 450 lbf·ft (406 to 610 N·m).
Notice: Do not attempt to straighten a bent cross tube. Doing so could result in damage to the axle. Be sure to replace the cross tube with an original equipment cross tube with the same length, diameter, and thread size as the existing cross tube.