Daily Pretrip Inspection and Maintenance Procedures

rv dm 12.02.001

Whenever equipment requires adjustment, replacement, and/or repair, take your vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer for assistance.

  1. Drain manually drained brake system air reservoirs.
    Water and oil normally enter the air reservoir in the form of vapor because of the heat generated during compression. After the water and oil condense, drain the resulting emulsion as follows:
    1. Open the wet tank valve. The drain cock or pull chain drain is located on the forward end of the supply air reservoir, which is connected directly to the air compressor. Block the valve open.

      Warning: When draining the air reservoir, do not look into the air jets or direct them toward anyone. Dirt or sludge particles may be in the airstream and could cause injury.

      Failure to drain the air reservoirs as instructed could cause sludge formation in the air brake system. Sludge could adversely affect braking, causing loss of control, which could cause death, personal injury, or property damage.

      1. Exhaust the remaining air and moisture from the system by opening the drain cocks on the bottoms of the remaining air reservoirs, or pull the lanyard(s) until the air is exhausted.
      2. Water and oil emulsion often form pockets that will not drain while compressed air is in the reservoirs. Because of these pockets, leave the valves blocked open during the first part of the pretrip inspection.
      3. If the drained water is cloudy or oily, it may indicate a problem with the compressor. If oil is allowed to contaminate the air dryer, it will not remove the water from the air brake system, which could adversely affect braking.
      1. Warning: Washer fluids may be flammable and poisonous. Do not expose washer fluid to an open flame or any burning material, such as a cigarette. Always comply with the washer fluid manufacturer's recommended safety precautions.

      2. Check the fluid level in the windshield washer reservoir.
        Add washer fluid as needed.
      3. Check the coolant level in the surge tank.
        If the coolant is low, Slowly add a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water to the surge tank; no more than 3.0 gallons per minute (gpm). Fill to the top of the surge tank. For approved coolants, refer to the coolant label on the vehicle or the engine manufacturer's service literature. Coolant used must be compatible with engine manufacturer’s coolant specifications. For Cummins approved coolants, refer to the engine manufacturer's service literature at Cummins Online athttps://www.cummins.com/support/manuals or scan the QR code. See Fig.. For Detroit™ engine service literature, refer to the Detroit Diesel link on the DTNA TechLit website https://www.dtnatechlit.com/portal-public or scan the QR code. See Fig.. Fill the surge tank with coolant to the MAX line when the tank is cool. If the surge tank was empty, start the engine after refilling, then check the level again when the engine is at operating temperature. See Fig..

        Fig. 1, Cummins QR Code

        Fig. 2, TechLit QR Code

        Fig. 3, Surge Tank Fill Cap

      4. Notice: Coolant must be filled to the full line of the surge tank. Low coolant could result in engine overheating, which could cause engine damage.

      5. Inspect the radiator and charge air cooler.
        1. Inspect the radiator and charge air cooler for clogged fins. Use compressed air or water directed from the fan side of the core to backflush any material restricting airflow.
        2. Inspect the radiator and charge air cooler for damage and accumulated debris. Straighten bent or damaged fins to permit airflow across all areas of the cores.

          Note: When traveling through areas of high insect concentration, it may be necessary to clean the exterior of the radiator or the charge air cooler core as often as every 200 miles (320 km).

          1. Also inspect and clean the condenser. If clogged, the condenser can restrict airflow through the radiator.
          2. Check the radiator for leaks. If leaks are found, have the radiator repaired or replaced. Take the vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer for assistance.
        3. Inspect the engine and chassis wiring.
          Check for loose wiring, chafed insulation, and damaged or loose hold-down clamps. Tighten loose wires or hold-down clamps; replace damaged wiring or clamps.
        4. Inspect the air intake system for leaks or damage.

          Notice: Failure to maintain a sealed air intake system could allow entry of dirt and contaminants into the engine. This could adversely affect engine performance and result in engine damage.

            1. Check the intake-air restriction indicator to determine if the air cleaner needs to be changed. See Fig..
            2. If the yellow signal stays locked in the red zone once the engine is shut down, or is at or above the maximum restriction value in Table., replace the air cleaner element. Take the vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer for assistance.

              Fig. 4, Air Restriction Indicator

              Table 4, Air Intake Maximum Restriction Values (inH2O)

              Air Intake Maximum Restriction Values (inH2O)

              Engine Make

              EPA07 and EPA10 Engines

              GHG14, GHG17 and GHG21 Engines

              Cummins

              25

              25

              Detroit™

              22

              18

                Table 4, Air Intake Maximum Restriction Values (inH2O)

                Note: After replacing the filter element, reset the restriction indicator by pressing the rubber reset button.

                1. Inspect the air cleaner, and replace it when it becomes clogged or dirty.
                2. Check the engine air intake piping from the air cleaner to the engine intake. Inspect the piping for loose connections, cracks, torn or collapsed hoses, punctures, and other damage. Tighten loose connections, and have damaged components replaced. Make sure the piping system is airtight so that all intake air passes through the air cleaner. Engine damage can occur if the air intake system is not properly maintained.
              1. Check the engine oil level.

                Notice: Operating the engine with the oil level below the minimum fill (or ‘add’) mark or above the maximum fill (or ‘full’) mark could result in engine damage.

                  1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Allow several minutes for the oil to drain back into the oil pan to ensure an accurate reading.

                    Note: Follow the engine manufacturer's guidelines for engine shutdown time requirements prior to checking the oil level.

                    1. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push the dipstick back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the oil level.
                    2. If the oil is below the cross-hatched area, or the add mark, at the tip of the dipstick, add at least one quart (liter) of the recommended oil. See Fig..
                      For diesel engines that comply with EPA07 or newer regulations, use CJ-4 engine oil with less than 1% sulfated ash.

                      Fig. 5, Oil Dipstick

                  2. Notice: Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine or aftertreatment component damage and will void the warranty.

                  3. Check the fluid level in the steering system hydraulic fluid reservoir. See Fig..
                    If needed, fill the reservoir to a level between the MIN and MAX marks. Use only Dexron® III ATF, or an equivalent.

                    Fig. 6, Steering System Hydraulic Fluid Reservoir

                  4. Important: Do not confuse coolant with hydraulic fluid. Both are pink in color.

                  5. Inspect the fuel tanks, fuel lines, and connections for leaks.
                    Replace leaking fuel tanks; repair or replace any mechanisms, lines, or connections that are leaking. Take the vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer for assistance.
                  6. Check the fuel level in the fuel tank(s). To keep condensation to a minimum, fuel tanks should be filled at the end of each day. Federal regulations prohibit filling a fuel tank to more than 95 percent of its liquid capacity. Select the proper grade of fuel as specified by the engine manufacturer.
                  7. Warning: Never fill fuel tanks to more than 95 percent of their liquid capacity. This could make them more likely to rupture from impact possibly causing fire and resulting in serious personal injury and death by burning. Do not mix gasoline or alcohol with diesel fuel. This mixture could cause an explosion, possibly resulting in serious personal injury or death. Do not fill the fuel tanks in the presence of sparks, open flames, or intense heat. These could ignite the fuel, possibly causing severe burns.

                    Important: Use ultralow-sulfur diesel (ULSD) fuel with 15 ppm sulfur content or less, based on ASTM D2622 test procedure. Failure to use ultralow-sulfur diesel fuels may void the warranty on emission components.

                    Notice: Water in the fuel/water separator will appear as beads. With the engine off, drain the separator only enough to remove the water; about two teaspoons at a time. Do not drain the separator completely or it will be necessary to prime the fuel system before the vehicle may be started again.

                  8. Check the fuel/water separator and drain any water present.

                    Note: The fuel/water separator may be relocated by the body manufacturer and the locations may vary.

                      1. Shut off the engine.
                      2. Remove the fuel cap.
                      3. Open the valve until draining occurs. Drain the filter sump of water until clear fuel is visible.
                      4. Close the drain and install the fuel cap.
                      5. Run the engine and check for leaks.
                    1. Inspect the front and rear suspension components, including springs, spring hangers, shocks, and suspension brackets.
                      1. Check for broken spring leaves, loose U-bolts, cracks in the suspension brackets, and loose fasteners in the spring hangers and shackles.
                      2. Inspect the shock absorbers for loose fasteners and leaks.
                      3. Tighten all loose fasteners and have any components replaced that are worn, cracked, or otherwise damaged.
                      4. On vehicles with air suspensions, check for leaks. Check air suspension components for cuts and bulges.
                    2. Warning: Do not replace individual leaves of a damaged front or rear suspension leaf spring assembly; replace the complete spring assembly. Visible damage, such as cracks or breaks, to one leaf causes hidden damage to other leaves. Replacement of only the visibly damaged part(s) is no assurance that the spring is safe. If cracks or breaks exist on front spring assemblies in either of the two top leaves, a loss of vehicle control could occur. Failure to replace a damaged spring assembly could cause an accident resulting in serious personal injury or property damage.

                    3. Clean the windshield, side, and rear windows with a long-handled or telescoping window cleaning device and standard cleaning solutions. Stand only on the ground, on a stepladder, or an elevated walkway. The vehicle entry/exit steps and handholds are not designed for this purpose. The tires, fenders, engine, and other under-hood components do not have adequate gripping surfaces and handholds.
                      Check the condition of the windshield wiper arms and blades.
                      Be sure the windshield wiper blades are tensioned against the windshield.
                      Inspect the wiper blades for damage and deteriorated rubber.
                      Replace the wiper arms if the wiper blades are not tensioned against the windshield.
                      Replace damaged or deteriorated wiper blades.
                    4. Check the oil- and air-pressure warning systems.
                      When the engine is started, oil- and air-pressure warnings will come on until the oil and air pressure rise above a preset minimum. After starting the engine, make sure the oil- and air-pressure warning systems are operating and that the buzzer stops sounding when the preset minimum is reached.
                      1. If the warning systems do not come on when the ignition is turned on, have the systems repaired.
                      2. If the air pressure in both systems is above the preset minimum when the engine is started, test the low air pressure system by lowering the pressure to below this range, or until the warning system comes on.
                    5. Note: The air pressure in both the primary and secondary air reservoir systems must be above 65 psi (448 kPa) on most vehicles.

                    6. Check the instrument panel warning lights. During the ignition sequence, if any warning lights remain on, see General Description for detailed instructions on warning lights.
                      For Front-Engine Diesel Chassis, check the instrumentation control unit (ICU) for fault codes.
                      During the ignition sequence, if an active fault is detected in any device that is connected to the datalink, the message display screen will show the active fault codes, one after the other until the parking brake is released or the ignition switch is turned off. See General Information for detailed operating instructions for the ICU.
                    7. Make sure that the horn, windshield wipers, and windshield washers are operating properly. These devices must be in good working order for safe vehicle operation.
                      1. Make sure that the horn works. If a horn is not working, have it repaired before trip departure.
                      2. Check the wiper and washer control on the multifunction turn signal switch. If the wipers and/or washers are not working, have them repaired before trip departure.
                    8. During cold weather; make sure the heater, defroster, and optional mirror heat controls are operating properly. If so equipped, turn on the mirror heat switch and make sure the system is working.
                    9. Check the operation of all the panel lights and interior lights.
                      Turn on the headlights, dash lights, and four-way flashers and leave them on. If any of the gauge bulbs, the dome light bulbs, or the right- and left-turn indicator bulbs are not working, replace them.
                    10. Make sure all the exterior lights are working properly. Check that all the lights and reflectors are clean.
                      1. Check that the brake lights, taillights, headlights, parking lights, turn signals, road lights (if so equipped), and front clearance lights are working properly and are clean.
                      2. Test the high and low beams of the headlights.
                      3. Replace the light bulbs or sealed beam units that are not working. Refer to the body builder book for light bulb replacement.
                    11. Important: The load and cold inflation pressure must not exceed the wheel manufacturer's recommendations, even though the tire may be approved for a higher load inflation. Some wheels are stamped with a maximum load and maximum cold inflation rating. If they are not stamped, consult the wheel manufacturer for the correct tire inflation pressure for the vehicle load. If the load exceeds the maximum wheel capacity, the load must be adjusted or reduced.

                      Important: Tire load limits refer only to individual tires and do not indicate the weights for the entire axle.

                    12. Check the tire inflation pressures, and inspect each tire for bulges, cracks, cuts, and punctures.
                      1. Check the inflation pressures of the tires before each trip, using an accurate tire pressure gauge. See Fig.. Check tire pressures when the tires are cool. The maximum inflation pressure for each tire is provided on the outer wall of the tire. Inflate the tires to the applicable pressures, if needed. Be sure that valve stem caps are used on every tire, and that they are screwed on finger-tight.
                        See either the Michelin Recreational Vehicle Tire Guide or Goodyear Service Manual for correct tire inflation pressures for the vehicle load.
                        Overinflation gives the treaded surface of the tire a convex shape. See Fig.. This causes premature tire wear in the middle part of the tire since this section is primarily in contact with the road.
                        Underinflation gives the tread surface a concave shape. See Fig.. This causes excessive tire wear on the outer edges of the tire since those edges are primarily in contact with the road.

                        Fig. 7, Checking Tire Pressures

                        Fig. 8, Checking Tire Inflation

                        Warning: Do not operate the vehicle with underinflated or overinflated tires. Incorrect inflation can stress the tires and make the tires and rims more susceptible to damage, possibly leading to rim or tire failure and loss of vehicle control, resulting in serious personal injury or death.

                        1. If a tire has been run flat or underinflated, before adding air, check for possible wheel or tire damage.

                          Important: Moisture inside a tire can result in body ply separation or a sidewall rupture. During tire inflation, compressed air reservoirs and lines must be kept dry. Service inline moisture traps regularly.

                            Important: Low-rolling resistance (LRR) tires minimize wasted energy as a tire rolls, thereby decreasing rolling effort and improving fuel efficiency. If tire replacement is necessary, replacement tires must meet or exceed the rolling resistance of the originally installed tires in order to maintain compliance with greenhouse gas and fuel efficiency regulations.

                              Contact your tire manufacturer/supplier to determine the rolling resistance of the originally installed tires. Visit for additional information and resources.
                            1. Inspect the tires for bulges, cracks, cuts, or penetrations. A tire pressure check will assist in uncovering hidden damage; a weekly pressure loss of 4 psi (28 kPa) or more in a tire may indicate damage, and the tire should be inspected and repaired or replaced.

                              Important: Only use temporary resealing or reinflation products that are water soluble and state that they do not adversely affect the operation of the tire pressure sensor(s), if so equipped.

                              1. If the tires are wearing irregularly, see the tire manufacturer's recommendations. Have the front axle alignment checked to determine the cause of irregular tire wear.
                                Government regulations require the removal of front axle tires at 4/32-inch (3-mm) remaining tread depth and rear axle tires at 2/32-inch (1.5-mm) remaining tread depth.
                              2. Inspect the tires for oil contamination. Fuel, oil, gasoline, and other petroleum derivatives, if allowed to contact the tires, will soften the rubber and destroy the tire.

                                Important: Do not use tire dressings. These will cause premature wear and deterioration of the tire material. Use only soap and water to clean tires.

                                  Warning: On vehicles equipped with ZF independent front suspension (IFS) and ZF SB 7000 front air disc brakes, the only approved front wheels and valve stems are those that come on the chassis as delivered from the FCCC manufacturing plant. These wheels have a special bolt pattern. Valve stems other than those delivered with the chassis may interfere with the brake calipers. The use of unapproved front wheels and/or front wheel valve stems could cause component damage and result in personal injury or death, or property damage.

                                1. Check the wheel nuts for indications of looseness. Examine each wheel component.
                                  Check the wheel nuts for indications of looseness. Remove all dirt and foreign material from the assembly. Dirt or rust streaks from the stud holes, metal buildup around stud holes, or out-of-round or worn stud holes may be caused by loose wheel nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts to the correct torque specifications in the proper tightening sequences. See Group 40 of the Recreational Vehicle Chassis Maintenance Manual for instructions.
                                  Examine the wheel assembly components (including studs and nuts) for cracks or other damage.
                                2. Check the fluid level in the automatic transmission. See Fig. and see Fig..

                                  Fig. 9, Transmission Fluid Level Check

                                  Fig. 10, Transmission Fluid Level Check (front-engine diesel chassis)

                                  Note: The automatic transmission fluid must be warm to ensure an accurate check. The fluid level rises as temperature increases. Check the transmission fluid with the vehicle on a level surface.

                                    1. Operate the transmission in a Drive (D) range until normal operating temperature, 160 to 200°F (71 to 93°C), is reached.
                                    2. Park the vehicle. Set the parking brake, and place the transmission in the Neutral (N) position. Let the engine run at idle.
                                    3. Wipe the dipstick clean and check the fluid level. A safe operating level is any level within the HOT run (upper) band on the dipstick. See Fig..
                                      • Cold Run Band

                                      • Hot Run Band

                                      Fig. 11, Automatic Transmission Dipstick Markings

                                    4. If the fluid is not within this range, add or drain fluid as needed to bring the level to the top of the HOT run band. See Table. for fluid types and capacities.

                                      Table 16, Transmission Lubricant Capacities

                                      Transmission Lubricant Capacities

                                      Series

                                      Refill Capacity*

                                      1000, 2000

                                      16.0 (15.1)

                                      3000, 4000 MH

                                      17.5 (16.5)

                                        Table 16, Transmission Lubricant Capacities

                                        *  Quantities listed are approximate. Add the recommended amount of fluid as listed under refill capacity, then perform a "hot check" and add fluid as needed. Do not overfill.

                                          Some Allison 3000 MH transmissions have a deeper oil sump than other models. These models require 3 additional quarts (2.8 L) of automatic transmission fluid (ATF).

                                        Important: For all transmissions, use TranSynd synthetic automatic transmission fluid (ATF).

                                          Note: A cold check may be made when the sump temperature is 60 to 104°F (15 to 40°C). Follow the substeps below.

                                          1. Run the engine for at least one minute to clear the fluid system of air.
                                          2. With the engine running, wipe the dipstick clean and check the fluid level. Any level within the COLD run (lower) band is satisfactory for operating the vehicle. If the level is not within the COLD run band, add or drain fluid until it reaches the middle of the COLD run band.
                                          3. Perform a hot check at the first opportunity after normal operating temperature, 160 to 200°F (71 to 93°C), is reached.
                                        1. Inspect the air brake components including the brake chamber pushrod, air reservoirs, and air lines.
                                          Inspect the front air brake lines for leaks at the fitting where they enter the air chamber.
                                          With an assistant at the front wheels to inspect the brake lines, turn the wheels to full lock in one direction. While holding the service brake pedal down, inspect the front brake air lines closely where they enter the air chambers.
                                          Turn the wheels to full lock in the other direction, hold the service brake pedal down, and repeat the inspection.
                                          If there is a leak, the hose should be replaced. Take your vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer for assistance.
                                          Look for worn clevis pins on brake chamber pushrods and missing or damaged cotter pins on the brake chamber pushrods clevis pins. Replace worn clevis pins and install new cotter pins if necessary.
                                          Visually inspect the piston rod engagement with the clevis. At least 7 threads of engagement are required; there should be 1 inch (25 mm) of clearance from the centerline of the clevis pin hole to the end of the piston rod. See Fig.. Take your vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer for assistance.
                                          See if the chamber piston rod is in line with the slack adjuster. Misalignment can cause the piston rod to rub on the non-pressure chamber and cause a dragging brake. Take your vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer for assistance.
                                          Visually inspect the exterior surfaces of the chamber for damage. Make sure that breather holes in the non-pressure section(s) are open and free of debris. Take your vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer for assistance.
                                          Inspect the air lines as follows.
                                          • Minimum of 1-inch (25-mm) clearance between centerline of clevis pin hole and piston rod end.

                                          • Minimum of 7 threads engagement.

                                          1. Piston Rod

                                          2. Piston Rod Nut

                                          3. Clevis

                                          4. Cotter Pin

                                          5. Clevis Pin

                                          Fig. 12, Piston Rod Engagement With the Clevis

                                          1. Check the clearance between the hoses, exhaust manifold, and turbocharger, or other hot spots. Excessive heat will cause the material in the hoses to deteriorate rapidly or become brittle. Provide at least 6 inches (152 mm) of clearance. More clearance is recommended if the hose is located above the heat source.
                                          2. Check for kinks, dents, or swelling of the hoses. If a hose is damaged, replace it with the same size and type.
                                            Do not route the hose on top of anything likely to be stepped on or walked on.
                                          3. Check for damage to hoses located near moving parts, such as drivelines, suspensions, and axles. If the moving parts are catching or pinching the lines, correct as needed.
                                          4. Check for hose damage caused by abrasion. If a hose is abraded, replace it. Check for the cause of abrasion, such as loose or damaged hose clamps. Repair or replace the clamps as needed.
                                          5. Observe the hose cover condition, especially hoses exposed to water splash and ice. If any hose is dried out or ragged (the wire or liner is showing through the cover), replace the hose.
                                          6. Inspect air tubing, especially tubing made of nylon. In cold weather, nylon tubing is sensitive to damage, such as nicks or cuts. Replace nicked or cut tubing, even if it is not leaking.
                                          7. Check the bend radii of all hoses. See Fig.. The minimum bend radius of a hose is that bend which the hose will withstand without experiencing damaging stresses or kinking. For minimum bend radius values, take your vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer for assistance.
                                            When a rubber hose bend does not meet minimum radius requirements, the outside may appear smooth even if the inner tube is kinked. Reroute the hose or replace it with one of adequate length if the bend radius is not within minimum specifications.

                                            Note:  Center of the hose bend radius should be well away from the fitting.

                                            • Bend Radius

                                            Fig. 13, Bend Radius

                                          8. Check straight hose installations (those hoses that do not bend along their routing). Pressure changes can cause a hose to lengthen up to 2 percent, or shorten up to 4 percent. A 100-inch (2540-mm) length of hose, for example, can contract to 96 inches (2440 mm). If the hose has no slack when it is exhausted of air, replace it with one of adequate length to avoid a possible blow-off from the fitting during vehicle operation.
                                          9. Check for kinked or twisted hoses. A 7 percent twist in the hose can reduce its life by up to 90 percent. Also, a twisted hose under pressure tends to untwist. This could cause it to loosen the fitting. Reconnect hoses that are twisted.
                                        2. Inspect the air brake lines.
                                          1. Check the clearance between the hoses and the exhaust manifold or other hot spots. Excessive heat will cause material in hoses to deteriorate rapidly or become brittle. Provide at least 6 inches (152 mm) of clearance. More clearance is recommended if the hose is located above the heat source.
                                          2. Check for kinks, dents, or swelling of the hoses. If damaged, have the hose replaced with the same size and type.

                                            Note: Do not route the hose on top of anything likely to be stepped on.

                                            1. Check for damage to hoses located near moving parts, such as drivelines, kingpins, suspensions, and axles. If moving parts are catching or pinching the lines, correct as needed.
                                            2. Check for hose damage caused by abrasion. If abraded, have the hose replaced. Check for the cause of abrasion, such as loose or damaged hose clamps. Have the clamps repaired or replaced as needed.
                                            3. Observe the hose cover condition, especially hoses exposed to water splash and ice. If dried out or ragged (the wire is showing through the cover), have the hose(s) replaced.
                                            4. Inspect the air tubing, especially tubing made of nylon. In cold weather, nylon tubing is sensitive to damage, such as nicks or cuts. Have nicked or cut tubing replaced, even if it is not leaking.

                                              Note: The front brake lines flex continuously in vehicle operation, so they require special examination. Give particular attention to the areas near where they connect to the front air brake chambers.

                                              1. This inspection requires two people, one in the driver's seat, and another to inspect the brake line connections at the wheels.
                                                Both wheel air lines must be inspected with the emergency brake set, engine idling, air pressure at 80 to 90 psi (550 to 620 kPa), and the brake pedal held down.
                                              2. Turn the wheels to full lock in one direction and inspect both air lines where they connect to the air chambers, then turn the wheels to full lock in the other direction and inspect both lines. If a hose is leaking, have it replaced.

                                                Note: ABS-equipped vehicles operating in regions where especially corrosive ice removal chemicals are used may experience higher than normal rotor corrosion. Tone rings should be routinely inspected for corrosion. Severe corrosion of the integral ABS tone ring may cause the ABS warning lamp in the dash to illuminate due to false wheel speed readings. If the ABS warning lamp illuminates at any time other than at vehicle start-up, have the problem repaired immediately.

                                              3. Inspect the slack adjusters.
                                                Inspect the slack adjuster for any signs of damage. If damaged, have the slack adjuster replaced.
                                                Inspect the slack adjuster boot for cuts or tears. If the boot is damaged, have it replaced. Take your vehicle to an authorized Freightliner dealer for assistance. See Fig..

                                                Fig. 14, Gunite Automatic Slack Adjuster

                                              4. Important: Brake checking and adjusting is necessary for all vehicles, including those equipped with automatic slack adjusters.

                                              5. Check the air brake system for proper operation.
                                                1. Check the air governor cut-in and cut-out pressures as follows:
                                                  Run the engine at fast idle. The air governor should cut out the air compressor at approximately 120 psi (827 kPa). With the engine idling, apply the brake pedal several times. The air governor should cut in the air compressor at approximately 100 psi (689 kPa). If the air governor does not cut in and out as described above, it must be adjusted to these specifications. If the air governor cannot be adjusted or repaired, replace it before operating the vehicle.
                                                2. Check the air pressure buildup times as follows:
                                                  With the air system fully charged to 120 psi (827 kPa), make one full brake application and note the air pressure reading on the gauge. Continue to reduce the air pressure by moderate brake applications to a maximum of 90 psi (620 kPa), then run the engine at governed rpm. If the time required to raise the air pressure to 120 psi (827 kPa) (from the pressure noted after one brake application) is more than 30 seconds, eliminate any leaks or replace the air compressor before operating the vehicle.
                                                3. Check the air pressure reserve as follows:
                                                  With the air system fully charged to 120 psi (827 kPa), stop the engine and note the air pressure. Then make one full brake application and observe the pressure drop. If it drops more than 25 psi (172 kPa), all areas of leakage must be eliminated before operating the vehicle.
                                                4. Check the air leakage in the system as follows:
                                                  With the parking brake (spring brake) applied, the transmission out of gear, and the tires chocked, charge the air system until cut-out pressure of 120 psi (827 kPa) is reached.
                                                  With the service brakes released, shut down the engine, wait 1 minute and note the air pressure gauge reading. Observe the air pressure drop in psi (kPa) per minute.
                                                  Charge the air system until cut-out pressure of 120 psi (827 kPa) is reached. With the parking brakes released and the service brake applied, shut down the engine, wait 1 minute and note the air pressure gauge reading. Observe the air pressure drop in psi (kPa) per minute.
                                                  If leakage exceeds the limits shown in Table., repair all areas of leakage before driving the vehicle.

                                                  Table 22, Maximum Allowable Service Brake Leakage

                                                  Maximum Allowable Service Brake Leakage

                                                  Brakes Released

                                                  Brakes Applied

                                                  2 psi/min. (14 kPa)

                                                  3 psi/min. (21 kPa)

                                                    Table 22, Maximum Allowable Service Brake Leakage

                                                5. Check the operation of the Bendix® Hydro-Max brake booster, as follows.
                                                  1. With ignition off, depress the brake pedal and listen for the back-up motor to engage. Also, note that the pedal force relieves; the pedal should depress easily.
                                                  2. With the ignition off, engine running, parking brake released, ensure that the BRAKE warning indicator light is not on. This is a dual indicator and indicates that the parking brake is set, and warns if there is a hydro-max failure other than loss of back-up motor power.
                                                6. Test the service brakes.
                                                  When starting to move the vehicle and before picking up speed, test the brakes with the foot pedal and parking brake control valve (yellow knob) to be sure they will bring the vehicle to a safe stop.
                                                Note:
                                                Document Number: 0000109185
                                                Manual Publication Date: 2024-05-03
                                                Topic Publication Date: 2024-05-03